Durban… Warmth in the shores of Indian Ocean

BY GREGORY AUSTIN NWAKUNOR

Also known by its Zulu name, ‘eThekwini’, translated as the place ‘where the earth and the ocean meet’, Durban is situated on the east coast of South Africa, on the shores of Indian Ocean, and extends to the Valley of 1000 Hills.

  Little is known of the history of the first residents, as there is no written history of the area until it was sighted by Portuguese explorer, Vasco da Gama, who sailed parallel to the KwaZulu-Natal coast at Christmastide in 1497 while searching for a route from Europe to India. He named the area "Natal", or Christmas in Portuguese.

  It is one of the fastest-growing urban areas in the world. Its port is the busiest in South Africa and also one of the 10 largest in the world.
  The Durban Metropolitan area covers 2297km² (887miles²), stretching from the Umkomaas River in the south to Tongaat in the north, and as far as Cato Ridge in the west. It has a population of approximately 3.2 million people.

  The city has a mild, subtropical climate with sunshine for an average of 320 days a year. The year round sunshine and diverse natural environment makes Durban one of the country’s top holiday destinations, with pristine beaches, subtropical forests and game reserves in close proximity.

  The people reflect a rich cultural diversity of African, Eastern and Western influences. When the first Europeans settled in Durban in the 1820s, the Zulu people were already there. The Indian people came in the 1880s as indentured labourers to work in the sugar cane fields, and were followed by traders and business people from the East. Today Durban is a cosmopolitan African city, home to people from all over the world but retaining that strong African-Indian-European colonial heritage.

  The Central Business District, a hive of activity, is within easy reach of all hotels and convention venues.
  From Addington to the Country Club, Durban is lined with some of the most beautiful beaches. Besides natural beauty, these beaches provide a good number of facilities such as changing rooms, eating joints, and some water sports — all the making of a great holiday.

  Golden Mile, a 6-km strip along the Durban beachfront, is a place where life takes a turn for fun and relaxation in the city.

  Five star hotels and luxury apartments, all of which have an idyllic view of the Indian Ocean, border the beachfront. There is an efficient public transport system running throughout Durban, as well as an abundance of taxis.

  The International Convention Centre, centrally located, is an innovative, world-class convention centre, which can cater for conferences of up to 5000 people.

  This area is covered by a number of amusement parks, cafeterias, bars, pubs and discos. Visitors and locals flock this place for fun.

  From Durban to Amanzimtoti, Ballito to Umhlanga Rocks, to the rugged Wild Coast, the highway links popular seaside resorts in rapid succession. The road snakes through subtropical bush, cane fields and hills garlanded with hibiscus blooms.

  North of Durban, the coastline stretching from the Tugela Mouth to the Umdloti River is aptly known as the Dolphin Coast. Close inshore, shoals of bottlenose dolphins gambol in the waves, providing endless entertainment with their engaging antics.
  There is also facility for a ride on the famous rickshaws of Durban, a helicopter flip or the foot tapping music emanating from some of its open-air symphony orchestras.

 As the city extends north alongside the Indian Ocean, there are holiday towns such as Umhlanga and Umdloti, with beaches, restaurants and shopping districts, surrounded by rolling hills of sugar cane and indigenous bush.

  No visit to Durban is complete without a stroll to one of the townships. Townships offer visitors glimpse of the other side of Durban.

  Originally established by the apartheid government to house black people working in the city, townships have become sprawling and vibrant neighbours to the city.

  Inland from the beach lies Inanda, one of Durban’s big, sprawling townships. It was in this township where Mahatma Gandhi spent his formative years, and where former president Nelson Mandela cast his vote in the country’s first democratic elections in 1994.

  Gandhi developed his philosophy of passive resistance at the Phoenix Settlement and his home has been turned into a monument dedicated to lasting peace and justice.

  The Ohlange Institute, founded by John Dube (the first president of the African National Congress), is home to the site where Nelson Mandela cast his historic vote in South Africa’s first democratic elections in 1994.

  Inanda Seminary, the active campus educates close to 400 students among 10 historic buildings, the oldest being Rev. Daniel Lindley’s mission house, built in 1858.

  King Shaka Museum at KwaDukuza (Stanger), displays and exhibits thoroughly document the history of the people of southern Africa, from iron-age farming communities to the rise of the Zulu nation and the rule of Shaka, the most famous Zulu king.

  In Durban proper, there are many architectural attractions such as the Edwardian neo-baroque City Hall, modeled after the city hall building in Belfast.  There’s also the Durban's old railway station, now known as Tourist Junction (a tourist information center).
  Completed in 1910, the City Hall houses the Durban Art Gallery, a centre for international and South African Art collections.
  The Bluff is an ancient sand dune that protects Durban harbour, and beyond it is the coastal town of Amanzimtoti, meaning “sweet waters” in Zulu, said to have been named by the Zulu King Shaka after tasting the fresh water that flowed from the river. The area is characterised by unspoilt beaches, nature reserves, shopping malls, restaurant districts and residential suburbs. It is a popular destination for scuba divers who come to explore Aliwal Shoal off Umkomaas, regarded as one of the top 10 dive sites in the world.

  A 30-minute drive inland from the city centre will bring you to the suburbs of Kloof, Gillitts and Hillcrest.

  Just beyond Hillcrest is the Valley of 1000 Hills with its breathtaking views overlooking the deep river valleys where people live in traditional African rural homesteads. The area has nature reserves and dams ideal for adventure activities, a traditional Zulu show village and a vibrant arts and crafts route.

  Situated at a distance of around 35 km from Central Durban is Phezulu Safari Park, an exciting tourist attraction. The main highlights of this park are the valley of 1000 hills, traditional dances, artefacts, various beliefs and rituals, and many entertainment facilities for all age groups.

  Theatres and concert halls present classical, avant-garde and ethnic programmes, and art galleries display works created by the internationally famous and up-and-coming local talents. KwaZulu Natal's restaurants represent every facet of the city's cosmopolitan nature and cater for every palate and pocket. At the end of the day, what could be better that strolling on the beach to the rhythm of the waves?

Moses Mabhida Stadium: Moses Mabhida Stadium, located at the Kings Park Sporting Precinct. It is a state of the art stadium with an iconic design that defines the Durban skyline.

 The stadium seated 70 000 fans during the 2010 FIFA World Cup, with the capacity to further expand for large scale events such as the Olympic Games.

 Designed to ensure 365-day usage, the stadium includes retail space and an amphitheatre. A Sky Car or the 550-step adventure walk takes visitors to a viewing platform on top of the 360m long arch, 106m above the pitch. From this vantage point visitors can experience panoramic views over the ocean and city.

Muckleneuk: Erstwhile home of a sugar magnate, this building now houses three important African collections. These are Killie Campbell African Library, The Mashu Museum of Ethnology, and William Campbell Furniture Museum.

Markets: The Victoria Street Market on Grey Street hums with activity, and here one finds silks, saris, street hawkers and reputedly the largest mosque in the southern hemisphere. 

The Muti Market: Durban’s ‘Muti’ (traditional medicine) Market allows an insight into the world of traditional African medicine and healing practices.

Aquariums: The uShaka Marine World and Point Development encompasses a fantastic aquarium with a waterfront retail space called The Promenade, which stretches along the Durban waterfront and is home to numerous restaurants, pubs, hotels, and shops.  A great way to spend a half-day.

  The warm waters of the Indian Ocean are home to schools of bottlenose dolphins, which move up and down the coast all year round. Humpback whales (and occasionally southern rights) can be seen off the coast from July to November.

  You can view whales from high points along the coast and occasionally from the beach, whereas dolphins are often visible just beyond the waves.

Suburbs:  There are many suburbs, which are beautiful to visit, especially their beaches, world-class golf courses, awesome shopping malls, and restaurants.  We didn't stay in Durban proper, but in Uhmlanga Rocks, only about 8 kilometers outside of Durban.
Beaches: Durban is known for its miles and miles of golden beaches, and many of them are rated "Blue Flag" beaches, meaning they meet a very high standard of cleanliness, safety, clean water, and well, they are beautiful! 

Wetlands:  Located in KwaZulu Natal, and three hours north of Durban, the visitor will find the World Heritage Site of Simangaliso.  We spent six days in the town of St. Lucia.  The wetlands are 332, 000 hectares of pristine wetlands, savannahs, the tallest forested dunes in the world and the richest coral reefs teeming with fish, dolphins and whales.  We took a whaling tour and we were richly rewarded by sighting six playful humpback whales that kept coming right next to the boat to check us out!  Simangaliso is one of the most amazing and beautiful areas we have ever visited! 
The Drakensberg Mountains: This is the highest mountain range in South Africa, and they are strikingly beautiful and rugged at 3000 meters (9,843 feet).  In these mountains a visitor can enjoy the beauty of a World Heritage Site called uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park. 

Game Reserves: There are two very important and prominent game reserves three hours north of Durban, called Hluhluwe and Imfolozi.  Itis a magnificent area of woodland savannah where a visitor can find the ‘big five’, as well as other favourite game.  This park is famous for the rhino conservation programme, and the area sustains approximately 1600 rhinos. 

Important Religious Places

• The Jumma Musjid Mosque in town is the largest mosque in the southern hemisphere and can accommodate 5000 people.

• Built in 1969, the Hare Krishna Temple of Understanding in Chatsworth is simply beautiful. Designed in the shape of a lotus plant, its spires, surrounding moat, pillars, murals and mirrors attract many visitors.

• The Emmanuel Cathedral opened its doors in 1904 and finds itself amidst the hubbub of the inner city. The building is a landmark in Durban and was once a centre of intense political activity in the mid-1980s.